The Story of Chikankari
A vocabulary of stitches
Chikankari is not one embroidery. It is many. Each stitch has its own name, its own hand, and its own place in the work — passed from one generation of karigars to the next, for four hundred years.
Ghaas Patti
GHAAS · PAT · TI
Grass and leaf stitch. The ground beneath the florals. It roots the gulab and gives the design its sense of place — without it, the roses float.
Hool
HOOL
An open pulled-thread stitch. Creates hollow centers within the flowers by drawing thread away rather than building it up. Where other stitches add, hool removes — making light inside the embroidery.
Jali
JA · LI
Meaning "net" or "lattice." One of the most prized and labor-intensive techniques in all of chikankari. Threads are pulled and manipulated by hand to create an open, lace-like mesh within the fabric itself — not added on top of it. The fabric becomes the embroidery.
Keel
KEEL
A structural definition stitch. It does not announce itself. It gives each motif clean edges and a finished presence that separates considered chikankari from careless imitation.
Murri
MUR · RI
Tiny raised knots packed together to build dimension in the rose centers. You feel murri before you fully see it. Each knot is individual, placed by hand, one at a time.
Phanda
PHAN · DA
Round, precise raised knots — smaller than murri, placed as quiet punctuation across the design. Where murri builds mass, phanda places emphasis.
Shadow Work
CHHAN · KAO
Embroidered entirely from the reverse side of the fabric. Its forms show through from behind — soft, present, and impossible to rush. The main stitch of The Thread.
Zanzeera
ZAN · ZEE · RA
The chain stitch. Runs through the design as outline and connector, linking motifs with a line so fine it reads almost like drawing. The structure beneath the softness.

